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Old 01-12-2009, 07:01 AM   #1
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

With the end of the LDC contests, I thought I'd share some information for those who'd like to create some levels of their own, and don't know how.

This is a relatively simple Photoshop level design tutorial. It’s definitely not the only way, nor is it the easiest. It's simply the primary method I use.

Lesson 1: Hillside

Ingredients:

We’ll start off with an example of what we’re shooting for. Follow along and see what results you get:

“Hillside”


I created this stage from two pieces (3 counting the PS layer of brushing). But sometimes you need more than 2 to make a decent level:

One (A bit of Ibuki’s stage)-


Two (Wolverine’s stage)-


You will need the above images for this tutorial. Right click and save them to your PC from above, but for future projects grab them from below:

http://www.zweifuss.com/backgrounds.htm
http://www.slateman.net/images/gaming/


Set-up Steps:

1. Open up Photoshop (Doesn’t matter which version; you’ll only need the basics.)
2. Create new document – Set width to 700 and height to 400. (I usually go for a standard size of 700 x 400 – sometimes bigger.)
4. Open up the BG’s you downloaded from the links above.
3. The color modes of the Ibuki and Wolverine BGs are set to “Index” or “Indexed Color” – (they usually are since they’re GIFs). Change the modes by going up to the top left File, Edit, Image etc. Click: Image>Mode>RGB Color.


Down to Business-

Part one – Sky layer-

Select the Move tool (shortcut “v”). Click & drag the Ibuki stage onto your blank document. This will be the sky & hills layer obviously. Close the Ibuki original and click on your project doc again. Shift the Ibuki BG around so it aligns with the top and left side. Right now there’s a lot of white space on the right side and the bottom. To fix this we’ll need to copy sections of the sky and shift them to the blank sections.

Select the Rectangular Marquee tool (shortcut “m”). Click and drag the rectangular selection box across a section of sky & cloud. (If you get a bit of mountain in there, don’t worry about it.)



Inside the box, Right click>Layer via copy.

You’ve now created a new layer, just above your main BG layer, which contains that selection of sky. Switch back to the Move tool and drag it over to fill the white space. You’ll notice the hard, choppy line that’s showing between the overlapping layer.

Choose the Blur/Smudge/Sharpen tool. Set it to a small brush size and lightly blur the left edge of the ‘skybox’ away. (Set it small because we don’t want to blur/smudge the whole thing to death, just the hard edge!) Try smudging it as well, but make sure you brush to the right as you do so. While you’re at it, smudge the bottom edge of the ‘skybox’ in a downward motion over the white space a little.

Select the main Ibuki BG layer and blur a little of the edge under the ‘skybox’ – that would be the right side, just under your new layer. Fool with this a while until the two pieces look smooth and seamless. Try not to overdo it, but if you do, just start over from the steps above.

Once you’re finished and it looks like one piece, select the ‘skybox’ and click CTRL + E. You’ve now merged your layers into one:



Part two – Hills layer -

We’ll need to copy a section of the mountains & hills to fix the corner first: *



Then, we’ll work our way down to the rest of the white space. You’ll notice inside the circle, some of the mountains might be blurry from our ‘skybox’ layer. Let’s try to fix that while we fill the white space, too.

Select the Lasso tool; either polygonal or the plain lasso will do. Zoom in on the document a little by holding CTRL and hitting the + (plus) key; 3 or 4 times will do. Click and drag the document window to make it a little bigger:



Focus on the right side we’ll be working with. Begin tracing the edge of the mountains and down the hills by clicking across the image, clockwise, counterclockwise doesn’t matter. Complete the selection by making both ends (your starting and ending point) meet:



Now, inside the selection, Right click>Layer via copy. Now you’ve got a ‘bit o’ mountain and hill’ layer.

Zoom out to normal size by holding CTRL and the - (minus) key. Select the Move tool. Drag the ‘bit o’ mountain and hill’ layer over to cover the remaining white space. Align it so it looks like it belongs there:



The bit in the red circle: some grass looks out of place. On your ‘bit o’ mountain and hill’ layer, zoom in and fix it by selecting the Eraser tool and, erase the part jutting out. Zoom back out and survey your work. If you’ve got hard edges, select the Blur/Smudge/Sharpen tool and blur or smudge a little using the same method we tried on the ‘skybox’ layer. If it all looks smooth, merge the two layers.

Now, we’ve got to finish filling in the white with our hills. Once again, select the Lasso tool; I prefer the plain old lasso this time. (If you choose the plain lasso tool, you won’t need to click points like the polygonal; just click once and drag around the desired image/selection.) Begin selecting a decent chunk of hills – do not select any mountains and choose as little as possible of the highlighted/bright green parts of the hills:



Inside the selection, Right click>Layer via copy. Hold down CTRL + T to transform your new hills layer. Right click inside the Transform rectangle and pick “Flip Horizontal”. Now press the Enter key to finalize the transformation.

Select the Move tool and shift the layer down some so that it covers some white up:



We want to get a ‘descending valley / rolling hills’ look so we’ll need to darken this layer, and the next one’s we’ll create. Hold CTRL + U to get the Hue/Saturation window. Reduce the Lightness by a few points; no more than -10 for this first layer.

To take care of the white spot on the right, just select the Smudge tool and pull up on the layer a tiny bit.

In the Layers panel, Right click on the new hills layer and choose Duplicate Layer. Repeat the process of moving it down, flipping it horizontally and then lower the lightness so that its darker than the last layer.

Repeat the steps in blue until you’ve filled up all but a sliver of white space, then, merge all the layers:



Part three – Ground level layer -

Minimize your current BG project and grab your copy of the Wolverine stage - make sure it’s set to RGB Color. In the Layer panel, double click the layer called “Background”. You’ll get a prompt to change it into a new layer, “Layer 0” click ok. Why do this? Because if you don’t you’ll wind up with an unwanted green (or something) BG color.

Now, all we want is the wooden bridge so we’ll delete the rest of the image. The quickest, cleanest way for me is to select the Rectangular Marquee tool and drag a big box over everything but the bottom layer of the bridge. Simply lop everything off by clicking the delete key. Should look like this:



If your image isn’t as clean as the above (IE: You’ve got some blue showing or wooden poles sticking up) use Step Backward (CTRL + ALT + Z) a few times and make sure you get it all. Or make a new selection using the Marquee tool and cut out the unwanted bits of blue and/or bridge.

Now, what’s left of the poles still look odd, so, what we’ll do is use our Rectangular Marquee tool to select portions of the bridge without pole remnants:



Or



And then, Right click > Layer via Copy. Go over to the Layer panel, right click and Duplicate Layer a few times – we want to have enough material to cover up the poles. Select the Move tool and begin shifting the layers into place until you have no more poles showing. Then merge all the layers:



Looking pretty spiffy, eh? Well, there are those slight, hard edges. Choose the Blur/Smudge/Sharpen tool, set to a small size and go over the lines with Blur only – the piece is too small to fool around with smudging like we did on the sky and the hills. (When you blur click a little at a time, as not to overdo it.)

After this, I like to choose the Burn/Dodge/Sponge tool and Burn a few spots at random, using a left to right, or right to left motion. Do not go up and down. The Burn effect does a great job of taking the eye away from the Blurred spots and the joins, and it gives the wood grain an irregular, realistic look:



Okay, I overdid the Burn on that one. lol. Save this ground level as a new PS document or image for future reference. (I reuse just about all my altered ground levels)

Part four – Completion and final touches -

Okay, maximize your project (the one with the sky and hills). Click the bridge document, and with the Move tool, drag the layer and drop it into your sky and hills project window. Align it so it fits like so:



We’re almost done and it’s looking pretty good. To remove the hard edge/slapped on look and bring everything together, we’ll need some grass highlights. For this, we’ll create a new layer of brushing. Up at the top of PS, Click Layer>New>Layer. Your new layer should be sitting right under the bridge layer. If it isn’t, go to the Layer panel and move it there.

Now when painting/brushing on a BG, I prefer to use colors already in the image. It helps preserve the seamless “What? Me edit? That bad boy came like that!” look.

Select the Eyedropper/ColorSampler/Measure tool (shortcut “e”). Click the spot on your document that contains the brightest grass. You’ve just chosen your foreground color. For a normal brush that would be fine, but since we’ll use the “Grass” for the highlights, you will need to select a background color as well. On the toolbar, switch the foreground and background colors by clicking the double sided arrow seen here:



(Clicking the keyboard shortcut “x” will switch them as well.)

With the Eyedropper tool, choose a darker grass color than your previous one. Now, make sure your blank layer is selected. Choose the Brush tool and Right click anywhere on the project image. The Brush presets will pop up. Scroll down, find the “Grass” tool – Brush preset #134, and set the size to anywhere between 35 and 40 px (pixels):



Begin brushing just between the top of the bride layer and the hills. We want to simulate some grass growth at the edge of the wood. When you’re satisfied with the grass growth, right click and reset the brush size – between 5 and 8 px (pixels) is fine. Zoom into the document and scroll the image over. Begin adding some brushing highlights to the contours of the hilltops only. Don’t brush over the original Ibuki hilltop portions – just those we created.

When finished, zoom out and see if it looks right. Depending on what colors you chose, some portions of brushing may look too bright. Choose the Burn tool, set it to a small brush and work over those bright areas. Look it over again and if you feel it’s complete, save the Photoshop project.</span> *

Next, click File & Save As &gt; choose Format: JPEG and name your brand new level. When you’ve saved the image successfully, a Photoshop window called “JPEG Options” will pop up. In the Image Options section of the window click the drop down arrow. You’ll see the quality ranges from Low to Maximum. Choose either High or Maximum and click OK. (I use Maximum)

Behold! You’re masterpiece is complete!


[Notice how doing this all over from scratch gave me a slightly different outcome than my original.]


This was one of the simpler levels I created, but the methods used here are the methods I use in all my level making. Including turning this:



Into this:

“Waterfront”:


But that is for another tutorial.


Final note: The “Hillside” level you just created was for instructional purposes only – the same goes for the Waterfront level. The original is currently in the game, as is the &quot;Waterfront” level. Please, feel free to go out and try these techniques on level ideas of your own.

If you have Photoshop level creation tutorials you'd like to share, let me know and I might add them to this thread.
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Last edited by TitaniumFist; 12-28-2010 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:03 AM   #2
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

Okay, a quick tut this time, but we’ll be using the same methods seen in ‘Lesson 1 – Hillside’ – and they’re in fact, what I used to turn Adon’s level into ‘Watrfront’. I wanted to do that tut, but it was too long.


Lesson 2A – ‘Avalon’ (Removing unwanted images &amp; sprites)

Ingredients:

Our guinea pig: (And a the basis of an actual level I’ve created for undisclosed purposes)

×-men, Children of the Atom - Avalon:


You will need the above image for this tutorial. Right click and save it to your PC from above.

Set-up Steps:

1. Open up Photoshop (Doesn’t matter which version; you’ll only need the basics.)
2. Open up the Avalon level – we’re skipping the ‘New Doc’ step because we don’t need it right now.
3. The Avalon image (a PNG) is in RGB color this time, so I just double click in the layer panel to change it from Background to ‘Layer 0’.


Down to Business-

Something to remember when hiding things in a BG, use what’s already in the image. If that’s impossible, then import/create some other image. All we need this time though, is what’s in the image. There are two things we want to hide - *the gold ‘AVALON’ text in the top left corner, and Magneto. (Unless you want him in your BG)

Select the Rectangular Marquee tool (shortcut “m”). Look at the top left and right corners, they are exactly the same. Click and drag across the top right corner with the Marquee tool. (Just a box big enough to cover the AVALON text):



Inside the box &gt; Right click &gt; Layer via copy. Hold down CTRL + T to transform your new layer. Right click inside the Transform rectangle and pick “Flip Horizontal”. Press the Enter key to finalize the transform.

Now click the Move tool and drag the layer over and on top of the AVALON words. It should fit perfectly; if it doesn’t, fix it. Click CTRL + E to merge the two layers.

That was simple, but it’s time for Magneto, now.

As with the AVALON text, look at where the Magneto sprite is placed and approximate what part of the level’s right side would make a good mirror image-cover. Grab the Rectangular Marquee tool and drag it across what you think will do. You’ll need enough to cover his cape, his head, and most of his boots - It doesn’t have to be exact, and you can try it a couple of times to get it right.



Right click &gt; Layer via copy. CTRL + T &gt; Flip horizontal &gt; Press Enter key.

Now slide the layer in place over Magneto.



Select the Eraser tool, and chip away at the parts we don’t need.



Alright, if it looks good, merge the layers. (CTRL + E)

Next we’ve got that bit of his shadow &amp; his boot to take care of. Select the Polygonal Lasso tool and click around the opposite green design:



Right click inside the selection &gt; Layer via copy &gt; CTRL + T &gt; Flip horizontal &gt; Press Enter key.

Now, slide the layer over to the Magneto side.



CTRL + T , then hover your mouse outside the Transform box, click and turn the box upwards:



Release left click and click inside the box. Hold down and drag the box into position. Keep maneuvering the box until it’s basically covering the other one and most of Magneto’s shadow/boot etc. Press the Enter key when you’re done with the Transform.



Grab the Eraser tool and trim the end that’s jutting out. (I like to use the Polygonal Lasso, select what I don’t need and hit the Delete key.)



Merge the layers if it looks neat.

There’s a spot still missing some green. Choose the Eyedropper tool and pick the darker green area of the triangular/strip shape. Because the Eyedropper picks the foreground color by default, press X now to switch foreground to background. Now your dark green is set to the background color.

Choose your Polygonal Lasso again and make a very small selection around the gray spot. Hold down the CTRL key and press the Backspace key. You’ve just filled the selection in with your previously selected background color:



Press CTRL + D to deselect.

To finish off the floor, choose the Eyedropper tool again and pick some plain gray from the ground level. Press X to switch foreground/background colors.

Choose your Polygonal Lasso and make a selection around all the shadow showing on the gray floor. Hold down the key CTRL and hit Backspace, filling in all the section of floor with un-shaded gray.

Save your Photoshop document. Then File&gt; Save As &gt; choose Format: JPEG and name your brand new level. Save it.

“JPEG Options” will pop up. In the Image Options section of the window click the drop down arrow. You’ll see the quality ranges from Low to Maximum. Choose either High or Maximum and click OK. (I use Maximum, but you can choose whatever you like, really.)


And like that, Magneto’s vanished and you’ve got a level ready to fool with however you please.




Lesson 2B - 'Error Correcton' (Removing unwated images or sprites)

If (-ObNoXiOuS-1-) doesn't mind, I'm going to use his level, Streets of SFO from the official LDC contest as an example.

Using the same methods from Lesson 2A - 'Avalon' I was able to go from this:



To this:



And it only took a few minutes.

Last edited by TitaniumFist; 12-24-2010 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:07 AM   #3
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

Lesson 3 - Snow

This will be less detailed than the first two lessons (no step by step photo and text help) , but if you followed those and found them helpful, you already know what you're doing.

After opening up Photoshop and a suitable practice level image, direct your browser to this simple, but effective tutorial by Steve Patterson on adding snow to photographs:

http://www.photoshopessentials.com/p...hotoshop-snow/

The initial end-result from following the tutorial very closely the original level seen here:



Was transformed into:



As you can see, and as ambassadors and mods stated, the level is oversaturated with snow; a snowstorm if you will.

After following the tutorial on your own, you'll find you can tweak it here and there (as you can and should with any tutorial) and get a different effect. Never be afraid to Ppay with the tut. Pixeklate>Crystalize gives you fluffy flakes (use settings in the rage of 3 and 5, anything above that may start to look like giant snow).

Duplicating and uber-blurring layers creates a glow around some flakes. Add tiny flakes for depth.

By omitting the motion blur step, and pushing the black levels up, the second attempt was much better:



The ground cover seen above is mostly white brushing on a new layer (as always, remember to work in layers).

For the ground cover in another level, we simply use the polygonal lasso or the magnetic one, select areas of the stone, but left the outlines visible, and fill in with white:

Original:



After touching up in PS:



Tutorial Practice Level:




Tutorial Level End Result:



Tutorial video detailing the transformation process: (Forgive the blurriness. Try to watch on full screen. There is also no audio or text commentary.)

http://www.screencast.com/t/Wed8xZr5TDDC

You will notice that in the video, ground cover can be done differently than how I first mentioned in this post. While you can use the polygonal lasso to simply fill with a blanket of white, you can also use it as shown in the video; to create noise (snow). Just like the original tutorial by Steven Patterson.

Any questions, or problem areas you have, post a comment/question in this thread.
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Last edited by TitaniumFist; 12-24-2010 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:07 AM   #4
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

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Old 01-12-2009, 07:08 AM   #5
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

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Old 01-12-2009, 08:03 AM   #6
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

your stages are layered? so if i don't want to play with background on, will it give me part of the level like &quot;above the clouds&quot; (old school backgrounds) or will it be all black like these new backgrounds
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:15 AM   #7
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

No, they are not layered. They were during creation (in PS) but I merge them for the final JPG product. Playing without BG will give you the same &quot;blank/black&quot; BG.

I think TMyApp added the &quot;old school BGs&quot; he spoke of in the bug topic, in an entirely different method than the simplified one we now use - and they're most likely stored/read by the game in a different manner.
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:10 PM   #8
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

Nice tutorials. Good job helping others figure out some things in making stages. I might post a tutorial of how I designed some of my stages.
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Old 01-16-2009, 02:04 PM   #9
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

Wow.

Love how you've removed Magneto and such. By the way great job fixing the Streets of SFO level.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:22 PM   #10
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

excellent tutorials. ill have to favorite this so i can link it.
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:23 AM   #11
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

nice tuts just what i need to star my stage making
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Old 05-26-2009, 03:05 PM   #12
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

i never knew that was how you made stages. see learn something new everyday
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Old 05-26-2009, 03:38 PM   #13
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

very helpful ty expect to see some stages from me
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:25 PM   #14
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

I'm glad you all find it helpful.
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:34 PM   #15
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

Excellent work Titanium. I will try this out sometime.
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:29 PM   #16
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

Lesson 3 - Snow has been added to the third post of this thread.
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Old 12-24-2010, 05:52 PM   #17
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

Very nice TFist!

These have helped me quite a lot. Thank you!
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:28 PM   #18
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

I fail at this, im trying to make a stage yet everytime i try it fails D:. Can someone lend me a hand via teamviewer cause i use photoshop CS5.1 and i have no clue for it nor making stages. Ive read this over and over and i still cant succesfully do it.
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:39 PM   #19
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Default Re: Level Creation Tutorials

No, I don't do teamviewer. The tutorial on the first page is very detailed and straight forward. Did you follow it to recreate the level on the first page? And what specifically are you having trouble with?
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